Following the introduction of the blackstrap loom, the Ainu began to weave cloth from the inner bark of the elm tree, called attush. Men would  first strip the bark from the tree with such care that the tree could heal and continue to grow. The bark would then be softened, either by hot springs, or by the current of a river. Weaving, sewing, and decorating clothing were left to the women. Designs were embroidered on old cotton clothing or fabric scraps obtained from the Japanese and fianlly sewn onto the attush. The entire process of creating a single robe could take upwards of three months. The Ainu insist the designs carry no meanings and are done only to please the gods.

This fine example, from the early 20th century, features a striped attush base, iron-dyed cotton appliqué, and yellow embroidery stitching. The attush weaving is in good condition with no holes or stains. There is some wear to the appliqué, consistent with the garment’s age. The textile measures approximately 42”x42”. Given its size, it’s likely this was a woman’s robe.